Varnish or Stain for Ipe, Mahogany, and other Hardwood

Exotic hardwood like Ipe, Mahogany, Tigerwood, Cumaru, and others are fast becoming a popular building material for a variety of wood products including doors, wood trim, lawn furniture, flooring, and various wooden structures.

Coating and Maintenance is quite different with these hardwoods.

Due to their high natural oil content, and extremely dense wood fiber, tropical hardwoods are difficult to protect with coatings and stains because very little volume of most products are absorbed into the wood. Only a small layer of surface wood deteriorates and needs rejuvenated (re oiled) seasonally. Therefore any oil type wood sealer or stain will require more frequent maintenance. Unfortunately, many oil and acrylic products are not suitable for exotic hardwood. Most dry out very quickly leading to frequent maintenance. Most Spar Varnishes and exterior polyurethanes lead to disappointing results and repeated costly failures. Choose the appropriate product based on your specific conditions.

Below is a summary of products that have tested well with us.

Interior
Exotic Hardwood Floors

Wood floors, countertops, walls, trim, doors, and other hardwood surfaces can be naturally beautified and protected, eliminating the difficult application, maintenance issues, and other disadvantages of polyurethane finishes.

Oily hardwood requires a compatible sealer for positive adhesion. Thick polyurethanes lay on the top, where they are prone to loose adhesion. A Tung oil and resin blend like Waterlox can offer the ease of maintenance, and lack of peeling of an oil finish, but with the hardness of varnish. Waterlox soaks in and cures with oxygen, hardening the surface, with no film buildup. It does not give a "plastic" look to wood, but gives a hand polished, natural looking finish. On Waterlox, scratches are much less visible than on a polyurethane, which is prone to show "whitish" scratching. Polyurethane scratches on dark hardwoods are even more pronounced. The other big advantage of Waterlox is that no sanding is ever required for recoating. Just clean, and refresh every few years. This is just an elegant finish for exotic hardwood flooring. Waterlox Reviews



Exterior

Hardwood Decks

For exterior flooring, and a variety of exterior applications, Waterlox Marine is available in a clear satin or gloss. Waterlox is the most elegant and natural looking finish choice, but does require more frequent, but easy maintenance.

More on Hardwood Decks

If you want a simple oil finish, we like Nature Color from Structures Wood Care. A quality oil finish like Nature Color will re-oil the light layer of weathered wood and rejuvenate color. Nature Color is pigmented for UV protecton. Chemical preparation is required for maintenance of oil stains.

One TIME Wood Protector offers longer protection than traditional oil stains, and cures by sunlight. There is no water or solvent to evaporate. Maintenance is simple detergent wash and recoat every couple of years depending on exposure. One TIME is not shiny, has very translucent pigments, and accentuates the natural beauty of exotic hardwood.

The deck in this photo is constructed of Garapa hardwood decking sealed with One TIME Golden Honey.



For a more finished look on hardwood floors and hardwood decking, an oil and resin blend like Waterlox can offer the ease of maintenance, and lack of peeling of an oil finish with the hardness of varnish. It does not give a "plastic" look to wood, but gives a hand polished, natural looking finish. For exterior applications, Waterlox Marine is available.

Film forming products like Sikkens DEK Finish can also offer a "more finished" look, but require a little more preparation, and are a little more technical to use. This is a pigmented product, and is not available in clear. Most exotic hardwood requires sanding and de-oiling before the initial application, and all backside and end grain should be precoated in many cases.


Doors and Trim

For exterior hardwood doors and trim , Waterlox Marine is a great system to consider.

Film forming products like Sikkens Door & Window products can offer good protection, and are widely available.

There is no single best product, but there is a best product for each specific project. I hope this helps.

Doug.

Paint and Caulking Choices

Paint and Caulking Choices carry tremendous consequence for Homeowners

Despite tremendous advances in paint and coatings technology, many builders, contractors and property owners still use products that have costly long-term consequences when wood rots, metal rusts, bricks crumble, walls crack, or paint peels.
Most painting and wood care products sold by the mass merchandisers and national chain stores demonstrate repeated failure and costly maintenance issues. Many widely sold products cost consumers and the environment. We encourage clients to shop in local independent paint and decorating centers for their projects.

The bidding process for most projects forces minuscule cost cutting with costly results in the long run. Material and caulking supplies should be specified by the owner, and separated from labor costs for most projects. Many times, a project will require 2-3 specialty caulks for various specific purposes.

We frequently see property owners bearing the cost of preventable paint failures and wood replacement on homes only a few years old. Many times, product choices are made based on short term savings on material, or simply a lack of awareness of newer, superior performing products availability. Many times, clients force the contractor to use inferior products by seeking continually lower bids their projects. Material costs should always be separated from a project bid, evaluating option costs based on long term expectations.

Miniscule savings on materials results in cheaper products being used in all phases of many projects. We can help you evaluate cost-effective choices and long -term value for every aspect of your project.

New Home Painting Guide

By helping our clients choose and acquire all the products and supplies needed to complete a project, there is no pressure on the contractor to even consider cost minimizing of materials for your job at the expense of quality.

We strongly encourage the use of water-based paint technology for your painting projects. There are superior performing, environmentally friendly alternatives to solvent based paints and primers.

Many readily available paint and caulking products boast from 10-45 year durability, yet we see widespread problems and failure, inside and out, within 3-5 years on many new homes and other types of buildings. Many paint failures result from the "one product does it all" approach. We seek manufacturers committed to the highest levels of performance and quality.

We are obligated to the manufacturers of none of the products that we discuss. We will present our products of choice for various painting, caulking, and specialty coatings projects. These choices are based on continual evaluation of past projects, and various products' durability and performance. Our history has enabled us to evaluate the long-term performance of numerous brands and types of paint products. We continually research and evaluate new products, tools, and procedures available for a variety of painting and specialty coatings projects. Our team consists of experienced paint sales representatives, certified coatings consultants, and specialty contractors.

By considering existing conditions, as well as product requirements and expectations, we seek to provide you the best wood coating systems and paint products available. We continually consult with other professionals to further expand the information made available here.

Using professionally proven superior-performing products and systems can prevent many common paint and wood coating problems. We help you implement these solutions through local independent paint stores who are part of the PaintSource Network.

Deck Stain Problems

We are in the middle of deck season again and we continue to receive calls from clients across the country continually dissatisfied with the deck products they have used to protect their deck or other exterior wood. We continue to fight the fight for homeowners confused by the array of products advertised and sold and the various confusing choices available.

I believe deck care is probably one of the most frustrating and disappointing aspects of home care and maintenance for many homeowners. There are many false claims with regard to frequency of maintenance and long-term performance. Most of the products heavily advertised and sold in the big warehouses and depot type stores continue to fail, yet are difficult to strip and maintain. Many of the products are chosen based on consumer publications and various so-called “test results”. We seek to share here and on our website the input we received from clients as well as a results of our continued testing of the various products available.

One of the best-known water sealers available is mostly paraffin wax and mineral spirits. The wax does a great job of beading water for a few months, then weathers away, and the wood is left unprotected the rest of the year. Once wax is applied to the wood it makes future wood care difficult and generally will compromise future results of anything applied later. Many of the new acrylics and water-based stains are proving problematic after the second or third maintenance coat leads to buildup of product, trapping of moisture, and peeling. The acrylic products however are very difficult to strip if you have a failure. Most readily available deck strippers will not break the bond of an acrylic resin product. We are highly frustrated at the amount of stripper needed to undo the disappointing results of many of the water-based deck and log care products being sold. Even the good old fashioned oil base stains are short lived, and many times lead to darkening and mildew issues in some climates.

A majority of the products currently sold lead to future stripping at some point in the maintenance process. By choosing the proper application techniques and the proper products for any particular project, we can eliminate millions of gallons of strippers and harsh chemistry being rinsed into backyard soils and streams.

The horizontal nature of a deck exposes the wood the maximum sunlight and whether exposure. Rain, snow, and ice lays on the surface for extended periods of time, the sun heats and degrades the surface , moisture is drawn into end grain and uncoated backside, grit and sand are ground into the surface, and the deck faces abrasion from furniture, dogs, and humans.

In the past, the majority of decks were built with pressure treated wood. Old-growth forests, which were a great source of quality stable wood are virtually nonexistent now. Second growth forests are younger fast-growing trees that are high in sapwood and knots. Milling procedures for smaller trees result in mostly face grain lumber which leads to various problems with staining or coating.

In some cases treated lumber is “pre-coated” and some new wood must be stripped before the proper stain can be applied. Look at the tags on wood for finishing schedule instruction.

Once a poor performing product is applied, homeowners are faced with a vicious cycle of repair and maintenance that usually ends up leading to stripping the failed product. During the first few years, the wood becomes deteriorated, and future results with any product are somewhat compromised. Clients will then try another product that may lead to equally disappointing results and the cycle continues.

Common problems with deck care and deck stains:

Historically, there are several other factors that led to the common dissatisfaction with deck care in general.

1. Decks constructed with wet wood

2. Incorrect product choice for staining or finishing.

3. Lack of a sealer or coating on the bottom side and end grain saw cuts.

4.Many confusing choices available that are heavily advertised and sold by suppliers with little experience or real-world testing. Most employees in the warehouse and national paint stores are seasonal and temporary help with little wood care experience.

The ultimate key to proper wood care and satisfactory deck maintenance should start before the deck is even constructed. We should assure that the wood is properly dried, coated on the backside, and sealed on the end grain where saw cuts are made. Once the deck is constructed, it is difficult to seal the end grain (a big source of moisture intrusion), and it is difficult to seal the underside (a cause of cupping). With these two sources of moisture intrusion, you have a deck that is prone to the boards expanding and contracting as moisture levels in the wood increase and decrease due to existing conditions. The expansion and contraction of the wood, combined with moisture exiting the wood will cause compromised results with most stains and wood coatings, and will usually lead to eventual warping, splitting, and cupping of the wood.

Seal all saw cuts when the deck is built and saw cuts are made. Open end-grain is another tremendous source of moisture intrusion. Saw cuts cannot be sealed once the deck is built. The solution to this common problem is to get your wood a few weeks before the deck is going to be built, and stack it with spacers allowing air movement through the stack . This allows the wood to dry slowly before the deck is built. Once the wood is dry, a sealer or waterproof or can be applied to the backside and all saw cuts as the deck is being built. Once construction is completed, the topside of the deck can be stained, sealed, or finished with the appropriate product.

So what do you do if your deck is already constructed? We recommend a waterproofing sealer to be applied to the bottom side of the deck either by mini roller on an extension, or a pump sprayer. Try to flood material into cracks between the boards and end grain saw cuts when coating the top of the floor. By eliminating all sources of moisture intrusion, we reduce the expansion and contraction of the wood that leads to cupping, warping, and splitting.

Selecting your stain or wood protection

There is no single best product for every deck or log home, rather there is a specific best product for each individual project based on existing conditions, client expectations, and maintenance capabilities.

Before making a choice of the wood stain or finish, a few questions need to be asked of the client:

1. Is this new or existing wood? Is it pressure treated?

2 Is the wood IPE, or Other Exotic Wood? Cedar, or Redwood?

3 Is the deck covered or in full sun?

4 Is the client willing to completely remove any existing coating? Many times when a previous sealer or stain has been applied, we must completely remove any existing failed stain to get good performance out of a new product.

New wood also presents a variety of issues to consider as to when to stain or coat, the preparation required, and the best longest lasting protection.

Ipe, Mahogany, Tiger Wood, and other exotic hardwoods always present a unique challenges to successful staining and beautifying.



One TIME on Ipe (Brazillian Walnut)

Painting Walls Project Guides

Here are a few new videos for painting projects at You Tube. I hope this is helpful to your projects.

New links

Here are a couple of new articles. I hope this is helpful.

Doug

http://waterlox.blogspot.com/ Waterlox Tung Oil Blend for Wood.

http://onetimewood.blogspot.com/ Long-Lasting Deck Protection.

http://wood-deck-care.blogspot.com/ About Deck Care.

Here are a few new links to some other resources we have created for homeowners for their projects:

New Home Painting Guide
Exterior Painting
PaintSourceTV
About PaintSource

Spare Time

My wife and I support and serve Central Kentucky Riding for Hope . CKRH is a therapeutic horseback riding program based at the Kentucky Horse Park. This program has provided diverse therapy to more than 1000 children and adults using the unique bond between man and horse. Central Kentucky Riding for Hope is dedicated to enriching the community by improving the quality of life and the health of children and adults with special physical, cognitive, emotional and social needs through therapeutic activities using the horse.We hope you will visit the CKRH site for information about this special program. The new covered arena for the program that was a dream 5 years ago is now a reality, as new facilities are near completion. More details here. Therapy can then continue year around, even in rain, heat, and snow. Thanks to all the supporters of the program who helped us get this far. CKRH still needs additional support to complete the efforts of many.

Please Read More Here about helping this effort.
Current Hoof Notes 2008

Therapeutic Riding is offered by similar programs in many communities across the country.

About Therapeutic Riding
Wikipedia Article on Therapeutic Horseback Riding

Doug Wilson
Founder, PaintSource.net
Lexington, KY

Drywall Dust Causes Paint And Caulking Failures

Question:

I am experiencing a paint problem in my new home. We've been living here since March. I was painting the white walls a custom color so I trimmed the ceiling and the baseboards with 3M blue tape I purchased from Lowe's Home Improvement. The tape promptly took the paint off the ceiling when I peeled it off after only 5 seconds of being applied. The paint and drywall contractors and the homebuilder superintendent have been here to inspect the home and have determined after 2 months, that nothing is wrong, but that walls were not intended to be taped unless you use the $11 per roll 3M tape. Not only did my tape peel off paint, but there is a spot on my wall where the paint just rolls off. There are numerous walls with orange peel, I think they call it, where there are many little cracks in the paint. Any advice?

Answer:

Your problem is common for a couple of reasons. On new construction, we see a lot of drywall dust remaining on walls prior to painting. You always have a mud joint at the ceiling and wall joint, and when sanded prior to painting, you get a tremendous amount of dust accumulating in the corners. If this dust is not vacuumed off, and the surface wiped, the remaining drywall dust on the surface keeps paint from soaking in. You will likely see a white powder on the back side of the paint chip, and from the surface where the paint peeled. Wipe with a dark rag to check, looking for this white residue. This residue should be removed from the failed areas prior to repairing.

This problem is typically compounded by the use of inexpensive flat latex paint as a primer and finish on ceilings. Many paint companies are promoting "self-priming" builder flat finishes for new construction, so I can't even blame the builders and contractors. These products typically do not wet through this dust. If the finish was sprayed on the ceiling, and not brushed or rolled in the corners, this will compound the problem. We do not like Blue tape, especially 3ms. It will pull flat latex in most cases, even if little dust is under the surface, which is almost always. I feel it is too aggressive for any flat acrylic. I do not like the "$11.00 3m " tape you refer to if it is the white paper tape. It will fall off the surface. We have a purple delicate surface tape that is featured on our site: Delicate Surface Tape from Shurtape. Use for For taping Flat Wall or Ceiling Paint. We have found this to be the best choice after testing every safe-release available to us.

Here is a brief taping discussion, and demonstration for great project results.

If the dust underneath is severe, you may still get some slight pulling, so please test this tape as well. Also, DO NOT pull the tape quickly after painting. After painting walls, a lot of moisture and humidity will be in the room, and this will wet and soften the ceiling paint temporarily, making it extremely sensitive to pulling. Wait at least 4 or 5 hours, and possibly overnight. On the area that has peeled, or any additional pulls, you may need to put on a little drywall mud to fill the area, but if there is not a lot of light on it, it may be acceptable to just "touchup" the pulled areas with the ceiling paint. You will probably still see the rough surface, but it may not be overly obvious.

As far as who is to blame for the failure, it is hard for me to address that. This is common practice in most new construction, and we have been promoting dust free drywall sanders, and better procedures, with little success. We always recommend sweeping drywall and damp towel wiping of sanded surfaces, especially corners. We also encourage the use of a drywall 1st coat primer, or better yet, a high end acrylic enamel primer. It is just hard to find many painters or builders who budget these procedures into a project. Bottom line, I would recommend the use of the Purple Delicate surface tape to minimize pulling, and make sure dampness is out of the room before pulling tape. If you are going with a slight sheen on the walls, you may want to consider painting walls first, hand cutting line at the ceiling, then taping walls after a few days, and paint the ceiling edge last, using the masked walls as the guide. We have some short video clips on taping and other topics at PaintSource.TV. I understand your frustration, because we see this problem all the time. Let me know if you need clarification, or further details.

Doug

See PSN Bloopers Here:

Will discusses dust free drywall sanding tools.

Check out Better Painting

My friend and paint specialist Tim Hoeffel has been putting together some great painting advice on a variety of topics. You can check out his articles by following this link:

http://www.betterpainting.net/

Common Exterior Paint and Finish Problems

The PaintSource Guide to Painting and Protecting the Home's Exterior

Many common preventable paint and caulking problems continue to cost homeowners and frustrate contractors. Many of these problems can be minimized or eliminated by using some of the proven solutions and procedures outlined here. We will be happy to consult with you about the causes and simple solutions to common paint and finish problems that most homeowners find on new and old houses.

1. Exterior Paint Failures resulting from the use of finger-jointed and / or Pre-Primed exterior wood siding, windows, and trim.

2. Failure of inferior Deck Coatings and subsequent cupping, splitting, and warping of treated decking material.

3. Use of Oil-based Paint on exterior wood leading to a brittle and non-breathable paint film that will crack and trap moisture; resulting in costly repaint, and wood deterioration or rot. See Video

4. The use of Marine Spar Varnish and other Polyurethanes on wooden entryways and doors leading to moisture entrapment, brittle film cracking, and guaranteed coating failure on exterior wood surfaces.

5. Moisture damage to a variety of surfaces and substrates resulting from the common use of inferior or incorrect Caulking Products, or the "one caulk does it all" approach. See Video

6. Poor results and coating failure when painting or staining Fiberglass Doors. See Video

7. Painting Wooden Door


Our systematic approach encompasses all aspects of exterior painting and starts before the job is bid. You must specify the specific steps and products required to paint and caulk your home. We can consult with you or your contractor to give you the best looking, longest-lasting exterior protection. We have observed and tested these proven procedures to reduce callbacks, and to provide a better quality and lower maintenance home for satisfied clients.

Project Consultation

Please contact us if we can assist you with your project.

All the best.

Doug

Exterior Porch Floor Paint

This article is a continuation of our common problems/ better solutions series at the PaintSource Network.

A common problem with painted exterior flooring is the use of oil based paint on wooden floor surfaces and decks. Unfortunately many national paint stores and builders warehouses continue to sell oil based floor enamel for exterior wood surfaces. This type of product is extremely hard, and will never withstand the expansion and contraction of exterior wood flooring. Even some acrylic floor enamels will be too hard or not breathable enough for certain construction designs. Extreme changes in moisture content and temperature of the wood cause hard coatings to be sheared from the surface as the wood expands, and the coating doesn't. Many times, new wood is extremely high in moisture content, and the wood surface is slick with mill-glaze. Primers (especially oil-based) are unable penetrate the surface of damp slick wood, and just lay on top with little adhesion. This also contributes to early paint failure.

Moisture entrapment also commonly occurs. Many times the wood is uncoated underneath, so moisture is drawn from the ground beneath the porch into the bare backside of flooring. This is the result of the non breathable nature of oil based products. Moisture trapped just beneath the coating surface fosters the growth of wood-decaying organisms. It also freezes in the winter months. The decay of this wood fiber leads to the release (peeling) of the paint film. Hairline cracks in the paint film, resulting from expansion and contraction of wood, allow further moisture intrusion, causing greater expansion of the wood, causing more cracks, allowing in more moisture, leading to rapid coating failure. If the floor is totally enclosed with no ventilation, our only choice is to use a solid color stain on properly prepared bare wood.


Sometimes we see only spot failure. Unfortunately, oil base paint never stops hardening. This is especially problematic on older coating systems that have been hardening to the point of eventual failure. Much of the paint that is currently intact, will eventually release. When we encounter a situation like this, we have two options. We can scrape the currently loose and peeling paint, and repair failed areas, and repeat this cycle every few years until the old hard underlying coating peels, or we can consider total coating removal. If lead is present in previous coatings, we need to consider chemical stripping as to not create a health hazard during coating removal and sanding.

For spot repair and repaint, we scrape off as much failed paint as possible, then sand with a dust-free palm sander (using 60 or 80 grit abrasive ) to blend in the bare areas. Final sand the remaining coating with 80 grit to leave a good profile for the coating. Prepare and prime the bare areas and recoat with an Acrylic Floor Enamel. Be aware that coating not removed now will continue to fail over time as any remaining old coating will always continue to harden. The second option involves total coating removal. There are several biodegradable strippers available. We also final sand the entire floor to remove any wood fiber damaged by trapped moisture, or the stripping process.

We have found very few good-performing floor paints for exterior wood floors. If the wood is already installed, and unprimed on the back, you have limited choices. If you absolutely want a solid painted finish, you could consider an acrylic solid stain like Enduradeck from California Coatings, or a solvent-based product like Sikkens Rubbol DEK, which is a flexible, breathable oil based wood floor coating (not a paint). It looks like paint, but performs like a stain--no film to peel. If you want to go back to natural wood, you have a variety of good options.

Each of your coatings options has distinct advantages and disadvantages depending on your specific requirements and whether you are recoating bare wood, or remaining paint. If you have failed paint, and choose not to strip the entire porch, you will need to sand the remaining coating so the new coating will adhere to it. Solid color stains are for uncoated wood only, so unless you get to completely bare wood, you should consider an acrylic floor paint , priming bare wood and existing paint with 2 different specialized primers. I hope this helps. All the best until the next.

Doug
http://www.paintsource.net/

Staining or Painting Wooden Deck

Decks and Porch Flooring

Keeping decks well protected is a big challenge. The wood is in a horizontal position, full of nail holes allowing water to seep into the wood where it will swell, shrink and warp the wood and stress your stain or coating system. Wood that is inaccessible , such as end grain, can't be properly sealed once the deck is already constructed. Most times, furniture scrapes the surface, people and dogs track grit and mud on it, and Mother Nature takes a toll.
The following discussion explains reasons we must sand wood for best results with any stain or finish when wood has been allowed to weather in the elements, or if a previously applied coating has failed. Many times, it is highly beneficial to sand even new wood for a variety of reasons.

SANDING DECK SURFACE
Sanding opens the pores of wood to accept stain, and also removes loose or deteriorated wood fiber that generally leads to premature coating failure and poor results. Sanding can also be utilized to blend or remove remaining stain after the deck stripping process. Even NEW Wood usually needs sanded due to "mill-glaze" resulting from the Planing Process , which compresses wood fiber, and POLISHES new wood making coating penetration virtually impossible. Wood that has weathered unprotected while drying over the first few months after installation should be sanded as well to remove weathered surface.

DECK COATINGS
Many products available have their own distinct appearance, performance, and application characteristics. The premium wood coatings discussed below are all proven solutions we choose for various specific conditions. Trans Oxide pigments provide the highest level of ultraviolet resistance, and impart a very natural look to the wood. Most of the coating choices outlined below utilize this premium pigment type. New wood should be sanded to remove possible mill glaze, or to remove grayed wood fiber if deck has weathered during the drying process. Sanding will always increase the adhesion and performance of your coating system.

Natural Finish
A product we discovered in recent years is OneTIME Wood Protector. It is uniquely long-lasting, and is very natural looking compared to many stains available. We believe solvent free OneTIME Wood Protector is good choice with respect to environmental issues and ease of maintenance. This is a great choice for docks and severe exposure. It offers beautiful protection with extended easy maintenance procedures. The most unique characteristic about the OneTIME is that it is virtually impossible to get lap marks or drip marks due to the unique way the product works on wood. We have coated 1/2 way across a board one day, then coat the second half the next day, and amazingly -NO LAP MARKS.

If you desire a varnish-like shiny finish, and ventilation is good, deck is at least two feet off the ground, and boards can be sealed on the underside, you could consider a thicker film-forming coating like Sikkens Dek Finish . This is a two coat brush applied alkyd protective translucent finish system for exterior wood decking. On properly prepared wood surfaces, this coating gives practically a look of furniture, imparting a varnish like shine while beautifully accentuating grain and color of the wood. This system requires a maintenance coat about every 3 years if in full sun. You need to have the pores of the wood grain open for proper anchoring of the sealer. The first coat preparation is the most important factor in longevity of the entire coating system. This product is suitable if the bottom side of the deck is sealed, and is at least 2 feet off the ground.

For a water-based Satin finish consider Structures Nature One. Structures is a great alternative to oil based varnishes, it looks and performs great, and is environmentally friendly.

If the decking wood is 2 feet or less off the ground, you should consider only a non-film forming wood sealer like OneTime. Maintenance for color rejuvenation is generally around 3-4 years, but wood is well protected for several years.

Hardwood Decking
One TIME is a great solvent free protector offering long lasting protection on hardwood decks. The UV cure is a great feature, since new exotic hardwood exhibits a high oil content which can sometimes interfere with drying and curing of many coatings.

Read more: Staining Ipe, Mahogany, and other Exotic Hardwood Decks

(See Video One TIME for Hardwood).

If an oil finish is required, Sikkens SRD is a proven solution for most mahogany and other dense hardwoods.

We have proven solutions and specific preparation procedures when dealing with exotic woods. Please contact us for specific project advice.


Porch and Deck Flooring
Porch and deck floors are sometimes difficult surfaces to protect, as the softer a coating is, the easier it wears off, but the better it tolerates moisture transfer and wood expansion cycles. Conversely, the harder wearing a coating, the less able it is to handle expansion and contraction of the wood, so most coating choices represent tradeoffs to consider.
It is very important to seal the underside of a deck or porch floor. The best method is to seal the bottom side of boards and end grain cuts before construction. If wood is near the ground, and the sun beats down on the top surface, moisture is drawn from the cool ground underneath up through the bottom side of the boards. This causes expansion and contraction of the wood, leads to cupping of the boards, and greatly reduces the long-term performance of any coating.
The product choice for your project should be determined by finding the most suitable product available given your specific project requirements.

Solid Color
For a solid painted look on exterior porch floors, you could consider Sikkens Rubbol DEK, which is the only flexible, breathable oil based wood floor coating (not a paint) that we are aware of. It looks like paint, but performs like a stain--no film to peel. It is breathable and flexible when applied to bare wood. For an acrylic solid stain, we prefer California Coatings Enduradeck Acrylic Floor Stain System for many projects. The Acrylic makeup gives this coating excellent satin sheen and color retention.. It offers excellent adhesion to properly prepared surfaces that have been previously coated. Enduradeck is flexible and breathable and is a great choice to consider when coating exterior wood decks and flooring.

Previously Coated Wood
Regardless of your coating choice, it will still be best to try to strip or sand any old, failed coating. After using strippers, many times wood is "fuzzed" and should be sanded using 3x Sand Paper 80 grit following the stripping process.

3x Sand Paper is also designed for coating removal. The paper really does make a difference. Most floor coatings will recommend 80g or 60g bare wood sand, but it depends on the coating you choose. We use a Dust Free Palm Sander . If you have sharp corners on boards that could be slightly sanded round, that would be helpful. We always do a final brush vacuum prior to coating application, and actually wipe the surface to insure no dust can interfere with coating absorption and adhesion.

Visit us at Timbercoatings.net for project assistance BEFORE you build your deck. Wood must be back and end-grain coated for optimal performance.

All the best, until the next.

Doug

Cold Weather Painting

Cold weather exterior painting is always a dilemma. We have fought this issue for years in our market. Painters love oil for the low temp tolerance, and also because it is easy to get a smooth finish with slow dry oil paint. On the downside, oil based house paint will always eventually lead to hard brittle paint that chalks and cracks. We usually see some chalk, and cracking at joints within 1-2 years. Moisture that is under paint film, either from interior moisture migration (on window sills), or water that enters through cracks at joints, will be trapped under the paint film causing microscopic wood decaying organisms to thrive. Mildew and fungus just beneath the paint film will cause the paint to release along with a very thin layer of damaged wood fiber. By the 3d to 5th year, we will generally see big problems on sills and wood joints, with cracking, and moisture damage to wood. Oil paint never stops hardening, so this type of failure is inevitable, it just varies by existing conditions, and product used. Bottom line, we never condone the use of oil based paint on exterior wood, and only a few special circumstances will ever warrant the use of old technology oil based paint.

There are a few Low temp Acrylics on the market that allow painting down to 35 degrees, but you must have at least a few hours of good temperature. My worry is that painters get the low-temp paint and assume they can paint until late in the day, then temperatures drop to the teens at night and the uncured paint is exposed to unfavorable conditions at the most critical time for the paint film. Many times, cold nighttime temperatures leads to dew formation , especially on sills and horizontal surfaces. Hot sun during the day will heat the surface, then cool temperatures at night willl cause moisture condensation on freshly painted surfaces. Surfactant Leaching is likely in these conditions.

Low temp acrylic can be a viable option if used properly, greatly extending our paint season (painting when 40 degrees to 50 degrees ). I would always pick a low temp Acrylic over oil based paint, but we have done no extensive testing, so most of the low temp applications we are looking at are only a couple of years old, but doing well. We still favor conventional 100% acrylic house paints applied in the 50-70 degree range) for the majority of work, and use the low temps when absolutely necessary. Caulking and patching products may be sensitive to low temperature as well, and if you are unable to caulk properly, Why Paint?

Coronado paint makes a low temp line called Maxum M9000. Coronado's 410-11 House Paint Primer also carries a low temp specification. If you are applying acrylic paint over existing oil that is failing, any existing chalk or mildew or other contamination must be removed from the surface. Clean with TSP and bleach (bleach to kill mildew and TSP to loosen chalk). A top quality bonding primer like Coronado 410-11, or in some cases Coronado 116-11 will be recommended on oil paint that is still shiny. Any extremely shiny surfaces must be dulled by sanding especially under eaves and areas not dulled by the sun. If the job requires a specialty primer, it would need to be low temp as well. There are various other specifics to converting from oil to acrylic on an existing house, such as failed coating removal, and caulking issues.

The main point I want to emphasize here is to only use the low temp paints when absolutely necessary, and plan projects during appropriate and favorable temperatures and conditions.

I hope this helps.

Doug
http://www.paintsource.net/

Featured Articles:
Exterior Paint Guide
Paint, Caulking, and Drywall Issues on New Construction

For the finest, natural looking interior floor finish, consider Waterlox Tung Oil Blended Varnish. Thousands are switching to the Waterlox advantage. Contact us for details. We will be glad to help.

About Oil Based Paint

We still, after several years of preaching the evils of oil based paints, have clients experiencing costly failures as a result of choosing oil based products for their projects. There are numerous product performance issues, as well as health-related reasons not to use oil based paint products for most interior and all exterior service. I acknowledge some specialized instances where solvent based products are required. We just see so many painters who choose oil based products for their ease of application and smoothness, at the expense of long-term performance. In most cases involving home finishes, oil based products generally contribute to early costly failure and inconvenience of use.

About Oil- based Paint
Oil-based Paints have long been associated with smoothness, hardness and durability. Numerous ingredients that gave oil base paint its durability have been banned or regulated, with good cause. There are numerous recognized health concerns related to solvent exposure among workers and homeowners. Oil-based products require solvents for cleanup. Paint thinner costs over $6.00 in most markets, and it is a PETROLEUM BASED product. The dirty solvent then must be disposed of, which, when done properly, is costly, and inconvenient. Many times dirty solvent is simply stored, or improperly disposed of. We discourage the use or storage of painting solvents in the home. It is a preventable risk, especially if within the reach of children or pets. Waste thinner on a jobsite can sometimes be a hazard. Besides, water is free. For times when a safe solvent is required, consider Soytek for a variety of safer, effective solvents for projects.

Interior
We observe frequent failure of alkyd (oil) based enamels on interior doors and trim. Most oil based products have superior performing, environmentally friendly alternatives available. We strongly encourage the use of water-based paint technology.

All interior wood expands and contracts, and oil based enamel gets much too hard and brittle, leading to cracks in the finish within a year or two of painting. Interior oil based paints continually yellow and harden as they age, leading to perpetual maintenance as the finish begins to chip and crack in corners. http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/yellowing_paint.htm

In summary, Premium Acrylic enamels will outperform oil-based products on interior woodwork and doors with respect to performance, cost, dry time, and ease of use.

Exterior Acrylics
For the exterior, Acrylic house paint will expand and contract with changes in wood, where oil- based paint will not. We frequently see residential customers bearing the cost of preventable paint failures and wood replacement on homes only a few years old, as the result of the continued use of oil based paint. Alkyd oil-based primers and paints grow brittle with age, causing them to lose flexibility and ultimately lose adhesion. Alkyd oil-based primers and paints are non-breathable, limiting their life over naturally moisture-containing wood surfaces. The oils in alkyd oil-based primers and paints are natural organic materials which serve as mildew food and actually promote mildew growth. We frequently observe poor color and gloss retention, and often see poor chalk resistance, when compared to top-quality 100% acrylic paints. See Failure: http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/video_pages/paint_failure_exterior_wood_surface_video.html
We highly discourage the use of oil based paint on most exterior wood. In summary, top-quality 100% acrylic primers and paints are clearly more effective than alkyd oil-based paints in all critical areas of product performance: wood protection, long-term appearance, durability, and reduced maintenance.

When coating over existing oil based paint with acrylic paint, be sure to follow manufacturers recommended preparation procedures, and use only PaintSource Approved Premium 100% Acrylic Finish.

Priming Exterior Wood
About Alkyd Yellowing
Wood Shrinkage
Wood Finishes
Exterior Oil Paint Failure

( More Topics )

All the best until the next..

Doug
http://www.paintsource.net/

Choosing Interior Paint...By BJ Andriot......Choosing the right color and finish for your project:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3227689514635253944&pr=goog-sl

Hardwood Floor Finishing. How to Schedule with Painting on New Construction

Today we will discuss Hardwood Floor Finishing. We hope to help you decide how to Sequence Floor Staining and Finishing with Painting on New Construction projects.

Builders, subcontractors, and homeowners many times find it difficult to sequence the various steps during new home construction. Hardwood floor installation, staining, and finishing typically create one of the biggest logistical challenges to the project manager. Wall and ceiling painting many times involves ladders and scaffolding, which can damage freshly installed and finished floors.

So you might think to paint before you install the floors, right? No. The problem is that newly installed floors must be sanded prior to staining and finishing, creating a tremendous amount of dust. The machines used for sanding are bulky and heavy, and many times result in dented or damaged walls and moulding. The dust generated by sanding would certainly compromise the quality of any freshly painted surfaces. Even small amounts of dust on freshly painted walls will make touchup of paint virtually impossible, as the seemingly invisible dust becomes quite visible in the presence of the moisture in the paint.

So you might think to install wood, sand it, and then call the painters in, right? No. Even if flooring is installed, sanded, and left unfinished, drywall mud and paint can impregnate unfinished and unsealed floors making staining and finishing difficult for the installer.

The concensus among many hardwood and painting professionals is to install, sand, stain, and 1st coat and even second coat all hardwood. Allow the finish to dry sufficiently, then cover the floor with Builder Paper. Attach the paper with Safe-Release Green Tape at the perimeter only, then use conventional masking tape to tape the paper sheets where they overlap each other. For scaffolding or heavy ladders, lay down thick cardboard over the paper where needed to protect from dents or gouges. Once the painting process is complete, the floors can be uncovered, and the floor finisher can prepare the floors and apply the final coat or coats of finish.

Good luck on your projects.

All the best.

Doug
http://www.paintsource.net/


Featured Solutions for a variety of wood coatings projects: http://www.timbercoatings.net/

More about Hardwood Floors: http://www.paintsource.net/pages/products/waterlox/waterlox_for_floors.html

Common Paint and Wood Coatings Problems.

Many of my articles will be dedicated the next couple of months to existing and prospective homeowners who are faced with paint and wood care projects for new or existing homes. We constantly are asked to advise on a number of common paint and wood coatings projects. I will attempt here to share with you here, and on the Painting Information Network, all that we know so that you can make the best choice when choosing products, procedures, and contractors for your projects.

We are obligated to the manufacturers of none of the products that we discuss here. We will present our products of choice for various painting, caulking, and specialty coatings projects. These choices are based on continual evaluation of past projects, and various products' durability and performance. Our history has enabled us to evaluate the long-term performance of numerous brands and types of paint products. We continually research and evaluate new products, tools, and procedures available for a variety of painting and specialty coatings projects.


If you are building a new home, PLEASE visit our Guide to Painting New Homes before you begin your project:
http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/new%20construction/paint_new%20_construction.htm


We present many Common Problems and Better Solutions on The PaintSource Network. Despite tremendous advances in paint and coatings technology, many builders, contractors and property owners still use products that have costly long-term consequences when wood rots, metal rusts, bricks crumble, walls crack, or paint peels. We continually see preventable paint problems and costly failures due to the use of incorrect or inferior primer/paint/caulking combinations. It is usually the homeowner who bears the cost of these choices. We hope to assist you in making an informed decision when choosing paint, deck finishes, hardwood floor finish, and other wood coatings products for your home.

Many widely used paint and caulking products are old technology historically proven to fail. We frequently see residential customers bearing the cost of preventable paint failures and wood replacement on homes only a few years old. Many times, product choices are made based on short term savings on material, or simply a lack of awareness of newer, superior performing products availability. In many cases, homeowners or builders may force contractors to use cheaper products by encouraging and demanding lower bids and cost-cutting approaches to paint and finishing projects. Miniscule profiteering on materials results in cheaper products being used in all phases of many projects.

We hope to help you evaluate cost-effective choices for every aspect of your project. By helping our clients get all the products and supplies needed to complete a project, there is no pressure on the contractor to even consider cost minimizing of materials for your job at the expense of quality.
We strongly encourage the use of water-based paint technology for your painting projects. There are superior performing, environmentally friendly alternatives to solvent based paints, primers, and wood coatings.

Many paint failures result from the "one product does it all" approach. We seek manufacturers committed to the highest levels of performance and quality. Many readily available paint and caulking products boast from 10-45 year durability, yet we see widespread problems and failure, inside and out, within 3-5 years on many new homes and other types of buildings.

By considering your existing conditions, as well as product requirements and expectations, we seek to provide you the best advice for coating systems and paint products available. We continually consult with other professionals to further expand the information made available here. This information contained here and on our website is intended as a tool for you to evaluate different options and products available. Final product or procedure decisions must be made based on your specific existing conditions and requirements.

All the best until the next.

Doug

Featured Article Today: http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/drywall_dust.htm

Featured Video Today.: http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/deck_coating.htm
(Deck Refinish Project)